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1 year agoI think what you are really asking is “how can I find out what other Internet providers offer service at my location”
And the answer is to go to this site and enter your address:
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Cake day: October 25th, 2023
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Using a switch will not make it slower. However, if the limits they impose are “per room” (or “per wall port”) then all the devices together will have to share that total speed.
If, however, you are very lucky and they impose the limit “per unique device” then each of the devices you connect to the switch will have its own allocation.
On amazon even normal switches have that term “splitter” in the description.
Even the TP-link switch that /u/1sh0t1b33r posted.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A128S24
TP-Link TL-SG105, 5 Port Gigabit Unmanaged Ethernet Switch, Network Hub, Ethernet Splitter, Plug & Play, Fanless Metal Design
They include it because its a term many naive users search for.
That cable most likely does not meet specs for Ethernet.
That said, you could try to use it, and it might work (or it might not)
Use whichever pairs you like, but be sure you use the same set at each end of the connection, and that each pair corresponds with where an Ethernet pair should be.
This page has an image that shows which pairs go together:
https://doitforme.solutions/blog/ethernet-wiring-t568a-versus-t568b/
It would work, but one with DOCSIS 3.1 would definitely be better, especially if you have or might plan to upgrade to a higher speed plan from your ISP.
Your “Fritzbox 6660 Cable” is a COMBO modem and router.
“some kind of converter” is called a standalone cablemodem - something like this:
https://www.surfboard.com/products/cable-modems/sb8200/
Note that when you change the device connected to the cable (modem), you will have to contact your ISP and give them the MAC address of the new modem to register in their network so that it is allowed to connect. Some ISP’s may have a website where you can log in and do this, others you may have to just call.
want to cut power to the router at night
Why?
The different SSID isn’t the issue.
THe issue is that you have a second router which isolates the home network from the one at your shop.
What you want is to use an access point in the shop, rather than a router. And make sure the point-to-point link is in “bridging” mode.
edit: also wifi cameras suck. You should seriously consider wired ones.
If only there were some way of instantly electronically accessing it over a large data communication network.
Also good lord that thing is ridiculous. But then again most routers that use the term “gaming router” are.
I wouldn’t buy any of those. Nor would I buy a router or any sort of networking device from Best Buy.
If a particular router looks more like an insect or an alien spaceship, instead of a simple rectangular enclosure, it is likely overpriced and overhyped.
In fact, you’ll get more for your money if you use wired-only router, and a separate wifi AP - similar to the benefit of using a separate modem from your router rather than a modem/router combo - you can choose devices that are best at their own job, rather than trying to either compromise or overspending.
Here is an article describing some good gigabit wired routers:
There are far too many variables to tell online.
Find someone that can come and take a look at your specific home and seek their advice.