Changed the hot end? Like just the brass nozzle tip? Or the what?
Either way if pla isn’t printing below 220 I’d start with a pid autotune. This will let you see if the hot end is actually doing what it should.
This site:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
Has all the steps for tuning a printer, pid and e steps are listed. It’s worked well for me on my old Ender3 Bowden drives and many of my newer direct drive ones.
What printer do you have?
It’s referring to a process called the 4:6 method invented by Tetsu Kasuya.
Deep Rock Galactic, I play it exclusively on single player with the little robot buddy. On easier modes it’s pretty chill and pauses well if you need to stop in the middle of a mission.
Sable is just a relaxing exploration game. No real combat, just riding through a desert on a hover bike. Cool art style.
Inscryption is a creepy deck builder, with some wild turns. Don’t look up much or spoilers abound.
Moonring is a free old school rpg. Graphics are classic but the game is a great throwback with some modern gameplay.
“Cue Ice cream truck music”
Sounds like “water hammer”. If you google that others can give a way better explanation of why it happens.
I fixed mine by closing the main at the street, and opening the faucet highest and furthest from the main. In my house that was an upstairs faucet at the opposite corner from the main. Released all the pressure and then turned back on the main. Noise left and hasn’t come back for 6~ months. There are knock arresters you can install or have installed that stop the problem before it happens.
https://museumoftheredriver.org/acro/