[Troubleshooting] Clog Guy is back, and things have completely ceased making sense. - eviltoast

Hi guys. Please check my previous post for any background questions, I don’t have it in me to go over everything again.

Long story short, I was having issues with clogging that were being caused by my hotend not reaching the reported temp. After a few days of troubleshooting and diagnosing the motherboard and Klipper settings, I gave up and decided the motherboard was faulty (even though I could not perform any tests to determine in) and bought an SKR mini. I got that all set up, and the printer has been working flawlessly since then.

Until now.

Same exact problem; one print goes perfectly fine, next print, failing to extrude by the 4th layer. I removed the clog, restarted the print, now can’t even extrude the priming line. Fearing the worst, I disassemble the hotend, try hand feeding filament, and once again I am unable to push more than a few centimeters through before it gets clogged up. A probe thermometer reads ~160C while Klipper reports 200C.

What could possibly be happening here? The board is an aftermarket replacement from a completely different company, so I doubt it’s a recurring manufacturer defect, but I have no idea what else can be causing this.

At this point I’ve spent so much time and money trying to fix this printer that I could almost buy a new one, but at this point I’m not convinced even that would solve the problem.

  • Carighan Maconar@lemmy.world
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    6 months ago

    Hrm, I had similar issues on my Artillery X2 before.

    Here’s what I went through:

    • Replaced the nozzle
    • Replaced the thermistor
    • Replaced the heating block
    • Replaced the main PCB
    • Replaced the heatbreak

    Finally, I gave up, and took out the thermistor again thinking maybe I broke it. There’s a small PCB connected to it, that sits on the side of the hot end assembly. I contacted Artillery about a potentially faulty hot end PCB, they sent me a replacement. It did not help. Desperate, I also replaced the thermistor with the replacement one that was part of their repair kit. And that worked. I think the faulty PCB broke the first replacement thermistor or something…